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The Financial Times: Fresh and Wild
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  • By
    Nicholas Lander
  • Published
    The Financial Times
    October 2011

The journey from fishing boat to pan takes less than 10 minutes. Even though it is now closed until Easter 2012, I make no apology for writing now about the striking restaurant and suites which Ruairí and Marie-Thérèse de Blácam run on Inis Meáin, the smallest of the Aran islands, off the west coast of Ireland.

My relationship with Inis Meáin dates back 15 years, when I bought the first of two sweaters I now own that were made there. Two years ago, as I paid for my second at Grey Flannel in Chiltern Street, London, the owner Richard Froomberg piqued my interest still further by telling me about a plan to build a restaurant on the island and all the good things he had begun to hear about the local shellfish.

Great food and distinctive fashion seemed too good a combination to miss, although as I set off on the 45-minute ferry crossing from Rossaveal, on the coast west of Galway, I had no idea just how closely they were intertwined within the de Blácam family itself, thanks to the diverse skills of three of its members.

The instigator of all this is Tarlach de Blácam, a Dubliner, who travelled west 38 years ago to pursue his studies in the Irish language, fell in love with Inis Meáin – all four by two miles of it – and settled there. Having quickly spotted the potential of its knitwear, he set up the white-walled factory which today ships 20,000 highly sought-after garments a year around the world and employs 16 people – 10 per cent of the island’s population. Next comes Ruairí, Tarlach’s eldest son, who was sent to boarding school near Dublin, and whose only happy memories of that time were the meals his grandmother made for him. He duly began cooking professionally, first in Germany and Italy, then at Cooke’s Café in Dublin, taking advantage of his father’s forays to Europe for fashion shows to pursue his interest in restaurants.

In 2000, Ruairí and his wife Marie-Thérèse, a student of architecture and business, moved back to Inis Meáin to open their own restaurant. But the fact that birds would be their only regular passing trade meant they had to think (and invest) bigger – it had to be a restaurant with rooms attached.

Enter Uncle Shane, an architect based in Dublin and, in due course, a low, long and narrow building made of stone and glass that has extraordinary views stretching from across the bay to Galway in one direction and to the cliffs of Moher in the other, clouds permitting.

We eschewed the bicycle and fishing rod provided with every suite and headed off on a three-hour walk. Below our path lay the bay that contains what local divers refer to as the “supermarket shelf” – the crayfish are so abundant that they can just pluck them off the underwater shelf. The walk back took us through tiny, stone-walled fields to the island’s only pub.

But none of this had really prepared me for the sense of place that I felt throughout dinner, triggered initially by a bowl of steamed periwinkles gathered from the shore. Looking up at the far wall I spotted a blown-up black-and-white photograph from 80 years ago of a local fisherman in his windproof sweater, cleaning the periwinkles he had just caught, a pint of Guinness by his side.

The restaurant is a family affair; Ruairí cooks, his wife, cousin and four Poles look after the customers. The menu is equally local: a potato and fennel soup with smoked haddock; brown crab salad with aioli; and the plumpest, juiciest scallops I have ever eaten, with a ginger and sesame dressing. Here they came perfectly caramelised but the following morning, as I waited for the ferry back, I saw the next day’s delivery on the deck of a boat: from boat to pan involves a journey of less than 10 minutes.

My main course, a fillet of the freshest cod with spinach and a grain mustard sauce, suffered only because it was served in a bowl rather than a plate and had to contend for attention with a bowl of simply steamed, red-skinned potatoes that just been dug from one of the fields we had walked past.

The following morning over tea and a freshly baked fruit loaf Ruairí, 37, and Marie-Thérèse, 33, took stock. Their assets include a 10-month-old daughter, the only addition to the island’s population in 2010, and an exceptional restaurant which has cost them €750,000 – all their savings, I guessed, and a little bit more.

Nature, which provides their kitchen with such ready bounty, can also play havoc with their bookings and business plan. But if any young restaurant couple in Europe deserve to flourish it is the de Blácams, deeply rooted on its very western extremity.


Australian Gourmet Traveller Magazine: The Hot 100, 2013
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  • By
    Fionnuala McHugh
  • Published
    Australian Gourmet Traveller Magazine
    May 2013

An authentic Celtic experience

Ireland’s tourism industry has designated 2013 the year of The Gathering for anyone with the faintest tinge of greenery in their chromosomes. But if you’d prefer to escape the general hooley, then head for the Aran Islands, off Galway’s coast, and the divine Inis Meáin Restaurant & Suites. Despite opening on the least accessible of the three islands, owners Ruairí and Marie-Thérèse de Blacam have quietly built up a cult following for their delicious locally sourced food and five suites with near-monastic simplicity. Here, in the wild landscape of ocean, sky and rock, you’ll see (and hear – the locals speak Gaelic) glimmers of a truly Celtic past.


Image Daily: Festive Food & Wine Wishlist
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  • By
    Aoife Carrigy
  • Published
    Image Daily
    November 2013
One of this writer's Christmas Gift Wishlist:
A voucher for Inis Meain Restaurant & Suites so I could go back and recreate one of the best short breaks I’ve ever had. And maybe I could go towards the end of their season and they’d let me stay on and write that novel I always thought I’d get around to. It’d be the perfect spot for it, what with all that windswept wilderness on your doorstep, and the food is pretty darn spot on too. (I could do island lobster and fresh spuds on a daily basis, no problem!)

Sunday Independent: Darina Allen’s best meal
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  • By
    Darina Allen
  • Published
    Sunday Independent
    June 2013

Sunday Independent: What is the best meal you ever had? Darina Allen: A feast of sea urchins at the Inis Meáin Restaurant and Suites on the Aran Islands.


The Telegraph: Irish Hotels for Food Lovers - Four of the Best
  • By
    Francesca Cyz
  • Published
    The Telegraph
    September 2011

It’s about an hour and a quarter from Galway airport to the ferry port that takes you over to Inis Meáin, the smallest and least-visited of the three Aran Islands, smothered in wildflowers and populated by fewer than 200. It is also home to the wholly unique Inis Meáin restaurant & suites, owned and run by Ruairí (island-born) and (mainland born) Marie-Thérèse de Blacam, who source almost all of its ingredients from the island and its surrounding waters. They opened the restaurant, which seats 25 and was designed by Ruairí’s uncle, in 2007. Originally it offered only one suite, but now it has five – the last was completed this spring. Each has floor-to-ceiling windows, panoramic views over the island, Galway Bay and Connemara, and its own private seating areas. They also come with bicycles and fishing rods, and are stocked with their own ‘mini delis’, with a freshly baked loaf of brown bread delivered each morning. There is plenty to do on the island, from walking and diving to exploring the oval fort of Dun Chonchuir.


The Financial Times: The delectable dozen: best restaurants of 2011
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  • By
    Nicholas Lander
  • Published
    The Financial Times
    December 2011

The strength of the creator’s personality seems to distinguish the most appealing places. It has been a year of eating excitingly. But among memorable introductions there has been the odd, sad farewell. Over the course of a fortnight, I managed to experience my first meal at Noma, Copenhagen, to taste René Redzepi’s extraordinary approach to nature’s bounty, followed by my final dinner at elBulli in Spain. Memories of this meal haunted me six months later when I cooked dinner for Ferran Adrià, its culinary genius, in our kitchen at home.

As I have been looking back over all the restaurants I reviewed this year, one aspect of the fascinating world of food came into focus. It did so, as the best things often do, from listening to my wife, the FT’s wine correspondent. She has long argued that a wine bottle, like nothing else you will find on a supermarket shelf, transports you directly to the region or village where it was made; and, in certain cases, to the individual who made it.

In restaurants, too, the strength of the creator’s personality now seems to distinguish those places I find most appealing from the others. This will be a major consideration for restaurateurs as they choose which kind of restaurant to open and where. As Danny Meyer in New York explained: “The challenge for me is to create somewhere that combines the excitement of going out … with the comfort factor of being welcomed and looked after as though you were in my own home.” In London, Heston Blumenthal set the bar extremely high at the beginning of the year when he finally opened Dinner in the Mandarin Oriental, Knightsbridge. Over the years several chefs have breathed new life into neglected British recipes, but here Blumenthal has achieved this within the setting of a bright hotel dining room devoid of stuffiness.

Lunch across the horseshoe-shaped counter at Zeb (Zuppe e Bollito) in Florence provided the opportunity to watch mother and son, Giuseppina and Alberto Navari, pace the interior, take orders, cook and open wine. The plates of ricotta-filled ravioli with a duck meat and orange sauce were equally exciting. Zeb is obviously far less expensive than Dinner, but shares the same eye for quality and the same disdain for pretension. Memories of this Florentine meal return whenever I dive into Ducksoup on Dean Street in London. Here too, the bar, the few tables and the kitchen are in close proximity as, invariably, are its owners, Clare Lattin, Julian Biggs and Rory McCoy. The old record player and the even older collection of vinyl are, however, distinctly Soho, not Florence.

Jackson Boxer has also demonstrated with the Brunswick House Café , Vauxhall, how a combination of style and wit, architecture and antiques, as well as fairly priced good food, can compensate for a very small amount of working capital. In southern and north-east Spain I met more committed characters. At La Carboná , once a sherry bodega, husband and wife Javier and Ana Garcia proudly serve what their talented son, Javier, is cooking. At Villa Más on the Costa Brava the exuberant chef Carlos Orta also showed his talents as compiler of an extraordinary list of burgundies and as a DJ (he played until 3am, we were staying very close by…).

What is so exciting about the new wave of Swedish cooking is not just exemplified by what Magnus Nilsson prepares from all that exists in the countryside and lakes around Fäviken , northern Sweden, or by what Mikael Jonsson is cooking at Hedone in Chiswick, west London. It is rather the commitment that seems to exist among Swedish chefs collectively to present their new style of cooking to the rest of the world.

This was most recently demonstrated when Bjorn Frantzé and Daniel Lindeberg left their renowned Stockholm restaurant for 24 hours to cook alongside Jonsson whom, until the morning of the lunch, they had never met.

In New York, the city’s dynamism was revealed at three very different occasions. The first was a two-family Sunday brunch at Red Rooster up in Harlem, where chef Marcus Samuelsson has created a restaurant that evokes history and a definite sense of place combined with excellent American food. The second was a two-family dinner at Prune , where the pleasure of Gabrielle Hamilton’s approach to cooking continued over the next few days as I read her enthralling autobiography, Blood, Bones & Butter. Finally, there was a memorable dinner at Daniel to celebrate a particular landmark in our family.

The most exceptional memories, however, still resonate from an overnight stay on Inis Méain off the north east coast of Ireland where Ruairi and Marie Thérèse de Blacam have opened a restaurant with five elegant bedrooms. As we waited in the bus for the 8.15am ferry, watching a fisherman unload scallops in the driving rain, a fellow traveller nervously asked Ruairi whether there are any days when the ferry doesn’t operate. “A few,” he replied. “But on those days you never want to leave the house!”


The Guardian: A rustic but stylish hotel…is helping bring new...
  • By
    Catherine Mack
  • Published
    The Guardian
    February 2011

Rugged Good Looks

The tiny island of Inis Meáin hides a beautifully conceived design hotel, camouflaged among the dry stone walls. From Galway, across the waves of Galway Bay, lies the tiny island of Inis Meáin, one of the three Aran Islands off the west coast of Ireland. I was met there by islander Ruairí de Blacam, who took me to his hotel called, simply, Inis Meáin.

On the short drive (Inis Meáin is only three by five kilometres) I was able to inspect the ridged surface of the island. The ridges are all stone: thousands of dry stone walls enclosing tiny empty fields, most cultured by people long gone, and a few still maintained by the island’s diminishing population of around 200. Other expansive slabs of limestone, too resistant to the traditional farming methods when soil was created from sand and seaweed, still boast fissures filled with rare, wild flowers.

These are the elements that inspired the look of the hotel of Ruairí and his wife, Marie-Thérèse, which is an incredibly simple and rustic design hotel. The building was hard to spot among the village cluster of the pub, the shop and a few cottages, as it is perfectly camouflaged by a limestone facade – a long, low-lying glass and stone building that is more like an Andy Goldsworthy creation than a hotel. The interiors mirror what’s outside, with soft grey furnishings and large expanses of space in each of the four rooms designated for rumination and relaxation, and large windows along every wall that draw your gaze outside.

When night fell, I headed into the restaurant where Ruairí, who is also the chef, stood centre stage in the open kitchen, chatting and chopping while guests sat in a line watching the sunset in one direction, or their host skilfully preparing a lobster salad, monkfish and dry aged sirloin in the other. The coup de théâtre was when he took a pollock caught earlier by a guest, filleted it, presented it sashimi style, sprinkled with ginger and sesame and passed it round for all to share. He took his well deserved applause for a superb night of epicurean entertainment in the island’s only pub, where the whiskey flowed as fast as the fiddles played.

Ruairí’s island childhood was spent fishing, rock climbing, or swimming, he said, and he wants his guests to experience the same. Bikes, fishing rods and swimming towels have been placed in the vestibule outside each room for encouragement.During the day I left my enormous white bed, white robes and alpaca throws and set out towards the silky greys of the rock and luminescent blue of the sky and sea. The south west of Inis Meáin is virtually uninhabited, a mass of jagged limestone leading down to imposing cliffs, with waves pounding up over the edge.

Inis Meáin has been the subject of many great writers’ works and most were available in the room. The Aran Islands, for example, is a journal of summers spent here by world renowned Irish playwright JM Synge, between 1898 and 1902, and I took a copy up to the pre-Christian ring fort of Dun Chonchúir, a stone construction of mammoth proportions with views across five counties, and sat wrapped in layers, reading in peace. I hiked and biked, and even braved a dip in the sea one day, and as I explored, I felt as if every stone wall had a story to tell. No one shared these stories more poetically than Synge: an emigrated family; a land dispute or a struggle to survive.

When I was walking alone, I felt an air of sadness lingering on the island, though sharing it with a loved one might dissolve that a little. Alone or not, Inis Meáin is also a place to celebrate this new generation of islanders who are sustaining their home by contemporising it without compromising its heritage. Because Inis Meáin is no longer between a rock and a hard place. Just like the island’s flowers, it is pushing through the stone, with strength and simple beauty.


Scanorama, SAS Inflight Magazine: Pure Genius
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  • By
    Rikard Lind
  • Published
    Scanorama, SAS Inflight Magazine
    October 2010

The bus from Dublin to Galway, which will be relieved by an old double-decker for the journey on to Rossaveal and the ferry over to Inis Meáin, roars throug a landscape that stubbornly refuses to countenance much more than hypnotic verdant pastures filled with horses, cows and sheep…


Cara, Aer Lingus Inflight Magazine: Once there it’s hard to imagine a more heavenly spot...
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  • By
    Emily Hourican
  • Published
    Cara, Aer Lingus Inflight Magazine
    June 2012

Home Comforts - Inis Meáin Restaurant & Suites, Co Galway

“Everything we do stems from our location. We are 15 miles off the west coast; remote, isolated and exposed to the elements. The beauty of the landscape and terrain is what informs us” So says Marie-Therese de Blacam, pictured above with husband Ruairí, and indeed the breathtaking appeal of Inis Meáin Restaurant & Suites is precisely this: it sits effortlessly into its stunning natural environment. Each suite has 10m-long continuous windows, in order to connect with the outside, interiors are natural wood and lime-plastered walls, with soft furnishings made from cashmere and baby alpaca from the island’s own knitwear factory.

Marie-Therese and Ruairí encourage their guests to get out and explore the rugged terrain and wildlife of the island, providing light-weight bikes, binoculars and a freshly-cooked hot-pot lunch for expeditions The Restaurant meanwhile, which the couple runs with the help of Ruairí’s cousin, Saileog Lally (see our cover), is increasingly being recognised internationally (the Financial Times lauded it as one of the twelve best in the world last year), and pursues the same commitment to the natural bounty of Inis Meáin. “Local lobster, crabs, scallops and fish are to the fore of our menus,” Marie-Therese explains. “We grow almost all our own vegetables, and we keep pigs, chickens, and have used beef from island-reared cows.” Wonderful natural ingredients are presented simply and without fuss, eaten in a dining room with panoramic views of the island and ocean, where the sky is often flooded with pink as the sun sets slowly behind the Connemara mountains.

Once there, it is hard to imagine a more heavenly spot.


The Sunday Times: A Minor Architectural Masterpiece
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  • By
    Sean Newsom
  • Published
    The Sunday Times
    June 2012

Ruairí de Blacam’s restaurant with rooms is on Middle Island, and catches the full force of whatever’s coming, whether it’s brilliant sunshine or howling Atlantic gales. The building is a minor architectural masterpiece - sharp, yet entirely in sympathy with its low-rise, rough-hewn surroundings.


The Week: Hotel of the Week
  • Published
    The Week
    March 2011

Inis Meáin is the ideal base from which to explore the beautiful Aran Islands of Galway Bay, says Catherine Mack in The Guardian. Named after the island on which it lies, this “long, low-lying” glass and stone building is perfectly integrated into its stark, wild surroundings. The interior, too, mirrors the landscape, with soft grey furnishings and large windows in the four spacious guest rooms. Food is superb, conjured up by the owner, Ruairí de Blacam, as he chats with guests in his open-plan kitchen. Bikes and fishing rods are available to borrow, and the island’s only pub is nearby.


Travel+Leisure Magazine: Best Secret Islands on Earth, Inis Meáin Ireland
  • By
    Laura Read
  • Published
    Travel+Leisure Magazine
    October 2011

The pleasures of Inis Meáin are simple: a walk along the coast to the thunder of Atlantic swells; a tableau of fissured limestone that glimmers in the mist; the best potatoes you’ll ever taste. At the stone-walled Inis Meáin Restaurant & Suites, owners Marie-Therese and Ruairí de Blacam have equipped the five suites with bicycles and fishing rods, oversize beds come with alpaca throws, and 30-foot-wide windows look out onto Galway Bay and Connemara. The real allure is the 30-seat glass-walled restaurant, known for its deceptively basic fish dishes and homegrown vegetables.


Effilee Magazin fur Essen und Leben (DE): Das Gebaude ist ein Abbild seiner Umgebung
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  • By
    Christina Sues
  • Published
    Effilee Magazin fur Essen und Leben (DE)
    December 2011

Restaurant am Ende des Universums Der schmale Raum dazwischen Zwanzig Kilometer vor der Westkuste Irelands befindet sich auf der kleinen Insel Inis Meain ein gleichnamiges Restaurant und Hotel. Das Gebaude ist ein Abbild seiner Umgebung: Ein acht Meter langes Fenster durchtrennt die Wand, so wie die karge Landschaft Himmel und Erde trennt. Besitzer und Koch Ruarí de Blacam serviert dort Menus mit Produkten aus dem eigenen Garten und von einheimischen Fischern. Wer will, kann sich aber auch als Selbstversorger versuchen: Zu jedem Zimmer gehort eine Angel.


Darina Allen’s Blog: One of my favourite places to stay anywhere in the world...
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I'm sure you could count the number of restaurants in Ireland easily on one hand that offer sea urchins on the menu - Ballymaloe features them occasionally when they come up from West Cork. I adore sea urchins but rarely get the opportunity to feast on them so I was thrilled to bits to see them right on the top of the the dinner menu at Inis Mean suites on the Aran island with the proviso (order 24 hours ahead).

The restaurant with just five rooms owned by Ruari and Marie Therese de Blacam and is one of the hottest foodie addresses in Ireland right now. We love it for a ton of reasons not least that dinner starts with a little bowl of freshly picked periwinkles. How about that - not everyone's cup of tea but it gave me a oops in my tummie - what ever turns you on!

I'm an enthusiastic forager both on land and in the woods and on the sea shore but I've never known how to find sea urchins so I ordered them for the following night on the proviso that I could come with Ruari when he was collecting them. What an experience, we wound our way down to the seashore along the narrow botharins until we came to Tra Teacht. From there we scrambled over jagged boulders, limestone karst, round algae covered stones, slippery seaweed and fossils until we came to some rockpools exposed only during the spring tides a couple of times a year. Ruari waded in in his wellies and prized them out of their little nests with a chisel. I kept thinking how the little sea urchins were quietly conjugating in their natural habitat one moment and seconds later they were my dinner!

So how do you go about eating a sea urchin? Well, pick it up, hold it firmly with the mouth upwards, tap around in a circle with the bowl of a teaspoon until you have cracked enough of the hard shell to lift out the ? and made a opening large enough to scoop out the contents. Inside there will be five pieces of orange coral and other gunge all of which is delicious. Some people like to squeeze in a couple of drops of lemon juice but I love the fresh briny tasting coral on it's own.

We sat on the seashore watching the pollock jumping, feasting on sea urchins and the Morrocan chickpea stew in the picnic which had been delivered to our bedroom earlier in cute littleThermos flasks with a spoon tucked inside the lid. (Just what I need for my travel survival kit).

Later we went fishing with Turlough, Ruari's Dad, we were totally hopeless but he caught 10 or 15 mackerel, four and five at a time, I also love fresh mackerel so Ruari prepared sashimi with a ginger and sesame marinade and some spring onions, it was brilliantly good , in fact it was one of the most memorable things I've eaten all year.

Everyone speaks Irish on Inis Mean, the least visited of the Aran Islands off the west coast of Ireland. It can be reached by plane or ferry and is truly a world apart with one of my favourite places to stay anywhere in the world.


remodelista.com: An Idyll on Inis Meáin
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It’s no wonder that artists, writers, and naturalists have been drawn to the Aran Islands for centuries; the dramatic landscape—with its craggy shores, rich cultural life, and bird-watching opportunities—keeps them coming back.

Just three miles long, Inis Meáin is the middle of the three Aran Islands, located off the coast of west Ireland. Native son Ruairí de Blacam (a chef), joined by wife Marie-Thérèse (a fashion designer from Cork), created Inis Meáin Restaurant & Suites as a way to share their love of the island’s natural beauty and sturdy local food. Ruairí's uncle Shane (of Dublin-based architecture firm de Blacam &Meagher) designed the low-slung, stacked-stone building, and Ruairí and Marie-Thérèse took charge of the interiors. The restaurant is adjoined by four rooms and an apartment suite.


ethicaltraveller.co.uk: The de Blacams want you to savour every bit of Inis...
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Few things in life beat a wish which actually comes true. This time last year I wrote a New Year’s wishlist, which included a mission to visit more of our stunning islands. First, a trip to Cape Clear made me smile and celebrate our natural heritage, but a trip later in the year to Inis Meáin, one of the least visited of the Aran Islands, actually made me cry. In the same way that a fine work of art makes me cry, or a stunning piece of writing, or just an overwhelmingly kind gesture. I experienced all of this on Inis Meain, staying at Inis Meáin Restaurant and Suites, a place where I felt all my travel writing Christmases had come at once.

Inis Meáin is a place of solace and reflection and Inis Meáin Suites has been designed with this in mind. As the only hotel here, it could have made a big splash, but instead its architect opted for a native limestone façade, with just enough glass to reflect the soft, luminescent blue sky, creating a long, low-lying building which segues seamlessly into the matching limestone terrace. This is just one of hundreds of hard-won terraces, so characteristic of the Aran Islands, stretching out in every direction like veins across a body.

Indeed, Inis Meáin Suites plays the role of a central artery on the island, providing tourism income which is sustainable in a sumptuous, seductive and yet sensitive way. Sustainability is core for its owners, Ruairí and Marie-Thérèse de Blacam. Ruairí is chef in his own restaurant, where the food has already won endless accolades from the gastro press. Before dinner, he showed me his impressive fields of vegetables, free range chickens, cow and piglets. As we walk past one barren field after another, all enclosed by the famous stone walls, I realised it’s not long ago in the island’s history that this land was considered impossible to cultivate. However, the local people created soil from sand and seaweed and, having grown up on the island, Ruairí seems to have inherited some of this determination to create life and sustenance out of the rock.

How far this island has come, with developments like the hotel’s water harvesting system which enables the use of grey and rainwater, helping in the creation of salads, herbs, cabbage, spinach and spuds. Later in the restaurant, his inspiration seeps through every mouthful of his food too, as we watch him produce lobster salad, monkfish and dry aged sirloin from his open plan kitchen, chatting with the guests as he merrily chops, sears and simmers.

The de Blacams want you to savour every bit of Inis Meáin, so even though you have the luxuries of an enormous whiter than white bed, chilled champagne, white robes and alpaca throws, the call of the land is too great. They leave bikes outside each suite, as well as swimming towels and a fishing rod. I managed to avail of all three and, along with my hiking boots, was able to reach the less accessible coves and cliffs, allowing me to live every moment here. I even caught some Pollock off the pier, which Ruairí prepared as a starter later – not just thrown in a pan, but sashimi style, sprinkled with sesame seeds, ginger and a bowl of wasabi sauce.

Walking is the only way to truly imbibe the wild, desolate and totally intoxicating beauty of Inis Meáin. The de Blacam breakfast is strategically generous, so that you can pack the leftover boiled eggs, salami, cheese and homemade bread into your bag for a good long walk. Don’t miss the wilder south west side of the island which took me a good four hours, as I navigated my way across the mad, craggy, limestone cliffs, constantly stopping to try and get my head around these unique and awe inspiring seascapes.

This is a pricey getaway, with suites €250 per night and a minimum 2 night stay. But if I could pick one ethical travel treat as a voucher for someone this Christmas this, without doubt, is my top tip. Because although I generally adore the solace of islands when travelling alone, Inis Meáin evokes such poetry and passion, offers such mystery and magnificence, that it is just one of those special places which begs to be shared with someone you love.


ardbia.wordpress.com: A sparkling gem of Irish hospitality both nationally...
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Inis Meáin is the least frequented of the Aran Islands. But it typifies that which is truly the spirit of these unique islands. Psychologically, the islands feel far away even for us nestled away in Galway but they are very easily accessed from Rossaveal by boat and also very uniquely by airplane from Inverin – the flight being a mere eight minutes from Connemara airport. It is wonderful to experience both ways of getting to the islands as you can have different perspectives of scale. The flight is stunning and as you approach the airstrip, you really get a sense of place and time on these islands that are an exercise in anthropology and climatic diversity.

I had not been to the islands for years but the draw of the award- winning Inis Meáin Restaurant and Suites was too great. Ruairí and Marie-Therese de Blacam have created a stunning restaurant with four large suites attached. The building itself was designed by architects Blacam and Meagher and was directly inspired by the surrounding area. It is a monument in contemporary stone and sits in tandem with the local stonewalling. The build is much publicised for its unique aesthetic and design consciousness. It exists as a contemporary build with a total embodiment of all that is around it, from wool throws on the bed, Irish pottery, periwinkles to start with as an amuse bouche before dinner and fishing rods and bikes left outside for your amusement. This place presents something totally fresh but with the greatest respect for everything that it has come from. This is what makes Inis Meáin suites stand alone as a sparkling gem of contemporary Irish hospitality both nationally and internationally.

The rooms are simple and yet luxurious with a view that would take your breath away. Egyptian cotton sheets in white with grey tweed furnishings and dark wood lend a simple tone that allows the space itself to shine. Breakfast in the morning is dropped off to the porch of the suite, homemade granola, fruit compote, traditional soda bread, jams and fresh boiled eggs from the house chickens. Breakfast can then be eaten on the expanse of windowsill that is an unending table in and of itself. You are then well set up for the day’s activities; a detailed list of what to do is laid out charmingly and amusingly by the owners in an almost ‘things to do’ on the island. A walk to Synge’s chair on the precipice of the cliff past the writer’s house is a sublime and head clearing adventure, cycling all the lanes of the island, an afternoon in the local pub with a toasted sandwich and a glass of Guinness followed by a visit to the multi generational traditional knitters in a nearby house, a swim at the deserted beaches, and without fail a trip to Inis Meáin knit wear factory shop.

It seems all that these people do is spot on and done with such integrity. Inis Meáin knitwear supplies stores all over the world. Its commitment again to the local product is combined with an element of luxury that positions their products in stores as renowned as Bloomingdales in New York. The store itself is an old barn but houses a most extraordinarily diverse collection of knitwear. With bargain baskets galore, this is a chance to get your hands on some wonderful bargains and great finds. You can spend hours here looking at the old black and white photos and trying on endless combinations of knits and working up your appetite for dinner.

The simple stone dining room is really one of the most appealing restaurant rooms in Ireland. Large old black and white photos of the islanders subtly break up the room. The dark wooden huge windowsill again dominates and frames the landscape as if it were a photograph, light exists everywhere, it is almost like eating outside such is the openness of the space. Ruairí cooks in open plan in the centre of the room. The menu is simple; bearing in mind that all food has to be shipped or flown in, that alone is a huge achievement. There is naturally a strong element of seafood with the crab and lobsters caught daily by the local fishermen in their currachs. The vegetables come from their own garden and arrive simply buttered and seasoned, as they should be. There is cooking – here the ingredients are allowed to shine. You leave having had wonderful attentive service by Marie-Therese who fills you in on the local island activities and anecdotes, which further enhances this unparalleled dining experience.

After three days of blistering sun we leave revived and restored.Happy in the knowledge that we didn’t have to fly hours to have an exceptional holiday, knowing we were supporting a local community and staying with people who work to enhance not exploit as they create an exceptional time for their guests. This is eco tourism at its best and most integral. The Aran Islands are a stunning destination and if you haven’tbeen for a while, visit them again. The local community could do with slightly more tourism and coupled with that, you will have some breathtaking peace and beauty.


Hoosta Magazine Online: An unforgettable holiday blend of tradition and modernity...
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It is an island in the middle of the ocean, a wonderful garden, a permanent show. Away from the Mediterranean heat, Inis Meáin (Middle Island) is developing its own concept of charming tourism. An immersion in the Irish land of the design hotel Inis Meáin Suites.

Less touristy than its neighbors, with only 187 inhabitants, Inis Meáin Island is located in the center of the middle island of the Aran Islands, off Galway on the west coast of Ireland, and sees the birth of a unique and original place. A restaurant and four suites are based in the Irish landscape through limestone materials used. Glass, wood, stone, slate are combined to result a sober and refined style. With its large windows, the restaurant that serves delicious local cuisine offers a breathtaking view on one of the three steps out of Europe described by the poet Seamus Heaney. This secret Ireland, land of narrow paths, and these men were fishermen and farmers who managed to tame the elements combine in a setting moon glistening in the rain. The precious hotel Inis Meáin Suites. offers an unforgettable holiday blend of tradition and modernity.


Focus Online (DE): Wo die Landschaft die Zimmer schmuckt
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Stein und Geröll bestimmen das Bild auf den Aran-Inseln. Auch das eines außergewöhnlichen Bed & Breakfasts, das „die Landschaft in die Zimmer holen will“.

„Wir sind das Gegenteil eines Spa“, sagt Marie-Thérèse de Blacam, „die Landschaft soll in den Raum reflektieren und umgekehrt das Design des Raumes zur Landschaft passen.“ Gemeint sind ihre drei Suiten mit Blick auf die Steinlandschaft und Weite von Inis Meáin, so der gälische Name. Jene Insel, gut 20 Kilometer vor der Westküste Irlands gelegen, gerade mal fünf Kilometer lang und drei Kilometer breit, ist die mittlere der drei Aran Islands – und so abgeschieden von der Welt, als lägen sie im Dornröschenschlaf. Gerade einmal 200 Bewohner leben auf dem Eiland, sie treffen sich meist im einzigen Pub. Doch seit zwei Jahren gibt es eine Alternative, die nicht nur Einheimische anlockt: das Bed & Breakfast von Marie-Thérèse.

Gerade ist ein Fernsehteam aus den USA auf der Insel unterwegs, originelle Motive sind gefragt. Im Haus des Schriftstellers John Millington Synge, der auf Meáin fünf Sommer lang verbrachte und eine tiefe Liebe für das Leben und die Sprache der Aran-Bewohner entwickelte, waren sie bereits. Die ovalförmige Burganlage von Dún Chonchúir und die Kirche von Mary Immaculate mit ihren eindrucksvollen Fenstern sind ebenfalls schon im Kasten. Jetzt steht der musikalische Teil an, im Pub, das bis auf den letzten Platz gefüllt ist. John Millington Synge zeigt mit seiner Fiddle, der Violine, Steve mit der Tin Whistle, der Metallflöte, und Conor mit seiner Bodhran-Trommel ein großes Repertoire. Das Publikum ist begeistert.

Auch Ruarí, Marie-Thérèses Mann, bahnt sich einen Weg zum Tresen. Er ist gelernter Koch und Mitbegründer von „Inis Meáin Suites B&B“ – endlich hat er Feierabend. „Die Letzten sind gerade gegangen“, erzählt er erschöpft und nimmt einen kräftigen Schluck vom frisch gezapften Guinness. Eine Gruppe Einheimischer habe den 50. Geburtstag eines Freundes gefeiert und mit alten Liedern ausklingen lassen. Ein schöner Beweis dafür, dass das Restaurant nach anfänglichem Misstrauen nun auch bei den Inselbewohnern immer besser ankommt.

Vor allem Familien, deren Kinder im Sommer vom Festland zu Besuch kommen, bestellen meist einen großen Tisch zum Wiedersehen, berichtet Ruarí. Er selbst ist auf Ines Meáin aufgewachsen, hat dann seine Kochkünste in einem Düsseldorfer Restaurant gelernt und ist im Anschluss viel herumgereist. Für den Vertrieb des heimischen Modelabels Knitwear Store, das hochwertige Wollprodukte wie Pullover, Schals, Mützen und vieles mehr in alle Welt vertreibt, hat er zahlreiche Hotels an unterschiedlichen Orten kennengelernt. Doch es zog ihn zurück in die abgeschiedene Heimat.

„Irgendwann wurde der Wunsch, etwas Eigenes aufzubauen, immer größer“, berichtet der sympathische Ire in rheinisch gefärbtem Deutsch. Etwas Besonderes sollte es werden, darin waren sich Ruarí und seine Frau einig. Auch wenn sich die aus dem fernen Cork stammende lebenslustige Marie-Thérèse sich erst mal an Land und Leute auf der Insel gewöhnen musste. Was die Architektur des Hauses anging, so schwebte ihnen ein Stil vor, der zur heimischen Natur passt und zugleich Designansprüche erfüllt. Ein exklusives Hotel, das ihnen ermöglicht, in diesem besonderen Fleckchen Erde gemeinsam heimisch zu werden. Ein befreundeter Architekt half bei der Konzeption der „Inis Meáin Suites B&B“.